Elaboración de un emulsionante cosmético a base de las saponinas del agua de lavado de quinua (Chenopodium quinoa) en ERPE

Abstract

For the preparation of the cosmetic emulsifier based on quinoa wash water, the raw material was obtained from the company SUMAK LIFE, located in the Province of Chimborazo, which uses 1000 L of water for every 700 Lb of Chenopodium quinoa grain; the deductive experimental method was used for this research. The extraction of saponin and the determination of the emulsifying capacity were carried out in the laboratories of Natural Products of the Faculty of Sciences of the ESPOCH, where four methodologies were evaluated, being the method developed by BONIFÁZ, L. with the pertinent modifications the one that showed the best yield (4.24 g/L); the presence of these metabolites was confirmed by means of the execution of physical, chemical and chromatographic parameters (hexane-ether-ethyl acetate solvent system (1:1:1) and vanillin: H3PO4 1% as developer). With the obtained saponin paste, shampoo and cream were elaborated to evaluate their emulsifying capacity; establishing that 5.0 g/15 mL for shampoo and 5.5 g/15 mL for cream are the equivalent concentrations to maintain similar characteristics (viscosity, solubility, texture, consistency and stability) in relation to cosmetic products elaborated with chemical emulsifiers. Thus, it is concluded that the saponins extracted from Chenopodium quinoa wash water have emulsifying capacity for the formulation of O/W type emulsions, do not present charge and are considered as non-ionic emulsifiers, are of oleo-aqueous nature, have a pH close to neutrality and are useful for the elaboration of cosmetic products since low toxicity reagents were used to obtain them; they are not harmful to the skin. The use of this cosmetic ingredient is recommended for the elaboration of natural or certified organic products due to its low toxicity compared to synthetic emulsifiers.